PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)
Artifact Information
Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century.
The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.
Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by B. MacLaren
Summary of results
The major components of the plant are protoberberine alkaloids: palmatine and jatrorrhzine. No berberine was detected. The dyeing source was probably huangteng. [2]
HPLC profile
Absorbance at 350nm (mAU)
Identified compounds
| Compound | RT (min.) | MW | UV/vis | Other |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| palmatine | 37.1 | 351 | 348,428 | major component |
| jatrorrhizine | 34.4 | 337 | 348,428 |
References
[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.
[2] Xian Zhang,Karina Corrigan, Bruce MacLaren, Mimi Leveque, and Richard A. Laursen, Characterization of Yellow Dyes in Nineteenth Century Chinese Textiles. Studies in Conservation 52, 211-220 (2007).