PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)
Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century.
The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.
Summary of results
HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example amur cork tree or Chinese cork tree 
 Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.
 Richard A. Laursen and Chika Mouri "Decomposition and analysis of cathamin in safflower-dyed textiles", e-Preservation Science 2013, 10, 35-37.