V&A T.184-1948, Embroidery on gauze-banded plain weave silk robe, China (late 17th century-18th century)

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Artifact Information

The robe is made of gauze-banded plain weave silk with embroidery. This robe is a woman's garment that may be the earliest non-ecclesiastical Chinese garment in the Museum. The grand is a rich red silk that has horizontal bands of fruiting pomegranates (symbolizing a woman with many kids) in gauze weave running across the fabric at widely spaced intervals. Over this, there is shiny embroidered decoration of fruits, flowers, birds and mythical beasts [1].

Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK T.184-1948

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, detail of the robe

Summary of results

Analytical results by Jing Han [2]

Traditionally used Chinese dyes, pagoda tree buds, turmeric and safflower had been identified as the dyeing sources of this Chinese woman's robe [2].

HPLC profile

Absorbance at 350nm (mAU), one yellow thread was probably dyed with pagoda tree buds analyzed by X. Zhang

Identified compounds

References

[1] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72026/robe-unknown/ [2]