MAA 6-1-05 A, embroidered suzani, central Asia (late 19th century to 20th century)

Artifact Information

Suzanis are large, embroidered hangings or coverings that originated centuries ago in what is now Uzbekistan and neighboring parts of Central Asia. Typically they were sewn by village girls, using dyed silk threads, and became an important part of the girls’ marriage dowries [1]. This piece of suzani was collected by the Museum of Applied Arts (MAA) in Uzbekistan.The identification of synthetic dyes from the pieces suggested that the suzani was made no earlier than the late 19th century.

The Museum of Applied Arts, Samarkand, Uzbekistan: suzani (6-1-05 A) center|frame|Image of the suzani MAA 6-1-05 A. personal courtesy of R.A. Laursen

Summary of results

Image of the embroidered suzani (back) and summary of dyeing sources identified. photo by R. Laursen

Multiple threads (equal or shorter than 0.5 cm) were removed from the back of the suzani. It was found that the pinkish red thread was dyed with cochineal, an orange sample was dyed with larkspur and madder, another orange sample with pagoda tree buds and madder. Yellow threads were dyed with pagoda tree buds and larkspur.

HPLC profile

Absorbance at 350nm (mAU), one yellow thread was probably dyed with pagoda tree buds analyzed by X. Zhang

References

[1] Xian Zhang, Richard Laursen and Svetlana Osipova (2005) "Analysis of dyes in some 19th-century Uzbek suzanis"; Dyes in History and Archaeology To be published.