View source for PEM E49250, Chinese embroidered silk shawl (Early to mid 19th century)


== Artifact Information ==

Pale yellow Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. Imported from Guangzhou, China. Chinese crepe shawls such as this, with a ground of "bird-of-Paradise yellow" or "stem yellow" on which cordons of flowers are embroidered are mentioned in 1828 in the ''Ladies' Monthly Museum of London'' as "elegant novelties in fashion"[1].

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E49250.

[[File:Chinese shawl.PNG|center|frame|Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by  B. MacLaren]]

== Summary of results ==

The major components of the plant are protoberberine alkaloids: palmatine and jatrorrhzine. No berberine was detected. The dyeing source was probably [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Huangteng_LC huangteng]. [2]

== HPLC profile ==

[[File:Huangteng lc.PNG|center|frame|Absorbance at 350nm (mAU)]]

== Identified compounds ==

[[[SliderGallery rightalign|Pa2.PNG~palmatine UV-Vis|Ja2.PNG~jatrorrhizine UV-Vis|]]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! scope="col"| Compound
! scope="col"| RT (min.)
! scope="col"| MW
! scope="col"| UV/vis
! scope="col"| Other
|-
|-
| palmatine
| 37.1
| 351
| 348,428
| major component
|-
| jatrorrhizine
| 34.4
| 337
| 348,428
|
|}

== References ==

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress '''12''':43-54.

[2] Xian Zhang,Karina Corrigan, Bruce MacLaren, Mimi Leveque, and Richard A. Laursen, Characterization of Yellow Dyes in Nineteenth Century Chinese Textiles. Studies in Conservation 52, 211-220 (2007).


[[Category:Dye Analysis]]
[[Category:Cultural Artifacts]]
[[Category:Textiles]]