Difference between revisions of "PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)"

From CAMEO
Jump to navigation Jump to search
Line 9: Line 9:
 
== Summary of results ==
 
== Summary of results ==
  
The major components of the plant are protoberberine alkaloids: palmatine and jatrorrhzine. No berberine was detected. The dyeing source was probably [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Huangteng_LC huangteng]. [2]
+
HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and
 +
berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example  [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Huangteng_LC huangteng]. [2]
  
 
== HPLC profile ==
 
== HPLC profile ==

Revision as of 12:18, 8 August 2017

Artifact Information

Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century.

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.

Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mori

Summary of results

HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example huangteng. [2]

HPLC profile

Absorbance at 450nm (mAU)

Identified compounds

palmatine UV-Vis

Pa2.PNG

jatrorrhizine UV-Vis

Ja2.PNG


Compound RT (min.) MW UV/vis Other
palmatine 37.1 351 348,428 major component
jatrorrhizine 34.4 337 348,428

References

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.

[2] Xian Zhang,Karina Corrigan, Bruce MacLaren, Mimi Leveque, and Richard A. Laursen, Characterization of Yellow Dyes in Nineteenth Century Chinese Textiles. Studies in Conservation 52, 211-220 (2007).