Difference between revisions of "PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)"

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The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.
 
The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.
  
[[File:PEm 1.png|center|frame|Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mori]]
+
[[File:PEm 1.png|center|frame|Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mouri]]
  
 
== Summary of results ==
 
== Summary of results ==
  
 
HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and
 
HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and
berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example  [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Amur_cork_tree_(Phellodendrom_amurense_Rupr._Rutaceae)_LC amur cork tree]. [2]
+
berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example  [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Amur_cork_tree_(Phellodendrom_amurense_Rupr._Rutaceae)_LC amur cork tree] or [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Chinese_cork_tree_(Phellodendron_chinense)_LC Chinese cork tree] [2]
  
 
== HPLC profile ==
 
== HPLC profile ==
  
[[File:Safflower PEM 79076.PNG|center|frame|Absorbance at 450nm (mAU)]]
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[[File:Safflower PEM 79076.PNG|center|frame| Absorbance at 450nm (mAU) Modified HPLC profile with author's permission [2]]]
  
== Identified compounds ==
 
 
[[[SliderGallery rightalign|Pa2.PNG~palmatine UV-Vis|Ja2.PNG~jatrorrhizine UV-Vis|]]]
 
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
|-
 
! scope="col"| Compound
 
! scope="col"| RT (min.)
 
! scope="col"| MW
 
! scope="col"| UV/vis
 
! scope="col"| Other
 
|-
 
|-
 
| palmatine
 
| 37.1
 
| 351
 
| 348,428
 
| major component
 
|-
 
| jatrorrhizine
 
| 34.4
 
| 337
 
| 348,428
 
|
 
|}
 
  
 
== References ==
 
== References ==
Line 46: Line 21:
 
[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress '''12''':43-54.
 
[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress '''12''':43-54.
  
[2] Xian Zhang,Karina Corrigan, Bruce MacLaren, Mimi Leveque, and Richard A. Laursen, Characterization of Yellow Dyes in Nineteenth Century Chinese Textiles. Studies in Conservation 52, 211-220 (2007).
+
[2] Richard A. Laursen and Chika Mouri "Decomposition and analysis of cathamin in safflower-dyed textiles", e-Preservation Science 2013, 10, 35-37.
  
  

Latest revision as of 13:22, 5 September 2017

Artifact Information

Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century.

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.

Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mouri

Summary of results

HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example amur cork tree or Chinese cork tree [2]

HPLC profile

Absorbance at 450nm (mAU) Modified HPLC profile with author's permission [2]


References

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.

[2] Richard A. Laursen and Chika Mouri "Decomposition and analysis of cathamin in safflower-dyed textiles", e-Preservation Science 2013, 10, 35-37.