PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)

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Artifact Information

Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century.

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.

Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mori

Summary of results

The major components of the plant are protoberberine alkaloids: palmatine and jatrorrhzine. No berberine was detected. The dyeing source was probably huangteng. [2]

HPLC profile

Absorbance at 450nm (mAU)

Identified compounds

palmatine UV-Vis

Pa2.PNG

jatrorrhizine UV-Vis

Ja2.PNG


Compound RT (min.) MW UV/vis Other
palmatine 37.1 351 348,428 major component
jatrorrhizine 34.4 337 348,428

References

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.

[2] Xian Zhang,Karina Corrigan, Bruce MacLaren, Mimi Leveque, and Richard A. Laursen, Characterization of Yellow Dyes in Nineteenth Century Chinese Textiles. Studies in Conservation 52, 211-220 (2007).