Difference between revisions of "V&A T.184-1948, Embroidery on gauze-banded plain weave silk robe, China (late 17th century-18th century)"

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(Created page with "== Artifact Information == Suzanis are large, embroidered hangings or coverings that originated centuries ago in what is now Uzbekistan and neighboring parts of Central Asia....")
 
 
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== Artifact Information ==
 
== Artifact Information ==
  
Suzanis are large, embroidered hangings or coverings that originated centuries ago in what is now Uzbekistan and neighboring parts of Central Asia. Typically they were sewn by village girls, using dyed silk threads, and became an important part of the girls’ marriage dowries. Most of the surviving
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The robe is made of gauze-banded plain weave silk with embroidery. This robe is a woman's garment that may be the earliest non-ecclesiastical Chinese garment in the Museum. The grand is a rich red silk that has horizontal bands of fruiting pomegranates (symbolizing a woman with many kids) in gauze weave running across the fabric at widely spaced intervals. Over this, there is shiny embroidered decoration of fruits, flowers, birds and mythical beasts [1].
suzanis date to the late 18th and 19th century. the suzani with flower embroidery was thought to have been created in the mid-19th century[1].
 
  
The Museum of Applied Arts, Samarkand, Uzbekistan: suzani (КП1276/3)
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Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK T.184-1948
[[File:Suzani.PNG|center|frame|Image of the suzani. personal courtesy of R.A. Laursen]]
 
  
== Summary of results ==
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[[File:T.184-1948.jpg|center|frame|© Victoria and Albert Museum, London UK T.184-1948]]
  
[[File:Suzani result.PNG|center|frame|Image of the embroidered suzani (back) and summary of dyeing sources identified. photo by R. Laursen]]
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[[File:T184-1948detail1.jpg|center|frame|© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK T.184-1948 detail of the robe]]
  
Multiple threads (equal or shorter than 0.5 cm) were removed from the back of the suzani. It was found that the pinkish red thread was dyed with cochineal, an orange sample was dyed with larkspur and madder, another orange sample with pagoda tree buds and madder. Yellow threads were dyed with pagoda tree buds and larkspur.
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== Summary of results ==
 
 
== HPLC profile ==
 
  
[[File:Pagoda tree historial sample.PNG|center|frame|Absorbance at 350nm (mAU), one yellow thread was probably dyed with pagoda tree buds analyzed by X. Zhang]]
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[[File:VA result.PNG|center|frame|Analytical results by Jing Han [2]]]
  
== Identified compounds ==
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Traditionally used Chinese dyes, [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Pagoda_tree_(Styphnolobium_japonicum)_LC pagoda tree buds], [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Turmeric_(Curcuma_longa)_LC turmeric] and safflower had been identified as the dyeing sources of this Chinese woman's robe [2]. Berberine was found in sample 2, a green thread from the pattern. Quite a few plants can generate berberine as a yellow dye [3]. The most widely used were Phellodenrom spices, for example[http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Amur_cork_tree_(Phellodendrom_amurense_Rupr._Rutaceae)_LC Amer cork tree] and Chuan Huang Bo (Huangbo from Sichuan).
  
 
== References ==
 
== References ==
  
[1] Zhang, X. Laursen R. and Osipova S. (2005) "Analysis of dyes in some 19th-century Uzbek suzanis"; Dyes in History and Archaeology To be published.
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[1] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72026/robe-unknown/
  
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[2] Jing Han, The Historical and chemical investigation of dyes in high status Chinese costume and textiles of the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911) PhD thesis, University of Glasgow February 2016.
  
 
[[Category:Dye Analysis]]
 
[[Category:Dye Analysis]]
 
[[Category:Cultural Artifacts]]
 
[[Category:Cultural Artifacts]]
 
[[Category:Textiles]]
 
[[Category:Textiles]]

Latest revision as of 09:45, 4 August 2017

Artifact Information

The robe is made of gauze-banded plain weave silk with embroidery. This robe is a woman's garment that may be the earliest non-ecclesiastical Chinese garment in the Museum. The grand is a rich red silk that has horizontal bands of fruiting pomegranates (symbolizing a woman with many kids) in gauze weave running across the fabric at widely spaced intervals. Over this, there is shiny embroidered decoration of fruits, flowers, birds and mythical beasts [1].

Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK T.184-1948

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London UK T.184-1948
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK T.184-1948 detail of the robe

Summary of results

Analytical results by Jing Han [2]

Traditionally used Chinese dyes, pagoda tree buds, turmeric and safflower had been identified as the dyeing sources of this Chinese woman's robe [2]. Berberine was found in sample 2, a green thread from the pattern. Quite a few plants can generate berberine as a yellow dye [3]. The most widely used were Phellodenrom spices, for exampleAmer cork tree and Chuan Huang Bo (Huangbo from Sichuan).

References

[1] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72026/robe-unknown/

[2] Jing Han, The Historical and chemical investigation of dyes in high status Chinese costume and textiles of the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911) PhD thesis, University of Glasgow February 2016.