View source for PEM E79076, embroidered silk shawl, China (19th century)

== Artifact Information ==

Orange-red Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. 

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E79076.

[[File:PEm 1.png|center|frame|Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. photo by Chika Mouri]]

== Summary of results ==

HPLC profile of a low temperature (~50 °C) extract of fibers from a red 19th century Chinese silk shawl showed that both carthamin (red) and
berberine (yellow) dyes were detected. Carthamin was most likely come from safflower and berberine from a plant that contains alkaloids, for example  [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Amur_cork_tree_(Phellodendrom_amurense_Rupr._Rutaceae)_LC amur cork tree] or [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Chinese_cork_tree_(Phellodendron_chinense)_LC Chinese cork tree] [2]

== HPLC profile ==

[[File:Safflower PEM 79076.PNG|center|frame| Absorbance at 450nm (mAU) Modified HPLC profile with author's permission [2]]]


== References ==

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress '''12''':43-54.

[2] Richard A. Laursen and Chika Mouri "Decomposition and analysis of cathamin in safflower-dyed textiles", e-Preservation Science 2013, 10, 35-37.


[[Category:Dye Analysis]]
[[Category:Cultural Artifacts]]
[[Category:Textiles]]