Lexicon of Asian Textiles
Classification
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain/tabby | 平織り(Hira ori) | 平纹（Ping wen) | muslin, chintz |
| Twill | 綾織り (Aya ori) | 斜纹（Xie wen) | Brocade |
| Damask | 緞子 (Donsu) | 锦缎 (Jin duan) | Damask |
| Compound | 複様組織 (Fukuyō soshiki) | 混纺 (Hun fang) | blanket fabric, satin ribbon |
| Crossed | 羅織 (Ra ori) | 绞梭，交叉(Jiao suo, Jiao cha) | Gauze |
| Velvet | ビロード (Birōdo) | 丝绒 (Si rong) | Velvet |
Design
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain/none | 無地 (Muji) | 素面 (Su mian) | habutae, broad cloth |
| Plants/Flowers | 植物・花 (Shokubutsu/Hana) | 植物/花 (Zhi wu/Hua) | Peonies in Chinese Arabesques, Plum, Camellias, Floral roundel |
| Auspicious symbols | 吉祥 (Kisshō) | 吉祥象征(Ji xiang xiang zheng) | Buddhist treasures, Tamamushi beetle |
| Geometric patterns | 幾何学 (kikagaku) | 几何图案 (Ji he tu an) | Fret pattern, Diamond pattern |
| Stripes/Plaid | 縞・格子縞 (Shima/Kōshijima) | 条纹/格子 (Tiao wen/Ge zi) | Pin stripe, Tartan |
| Animals/Birds | 動物・鳥 (Dōbutsu/Tori) | 动物/鸟 (Dong wu/Niao) | Dragon, Hare, Peacock, Sparrow |
| Natural Motifs | 自然 (Shizen) | 自然主题 (Zi ran zhu ti) | Clouds, Moon, Waves |
| Other | その他 (Sonota) | 其他 (Qi ta) | abstract, Moire |
Base Color
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Multi-color | 多色 (Tashoku) | 多色 (Duo se) | red weft/yellow warp |
| Red | 赤 (Aka) | 红, 赤 (Hong, Chi) | burgundy, pink, vermillion |
| Yellow | 黄 (Ki) | 黄 (Huang) | golden, ocher |
| Green | 萌黄 (Moegi) | 绿 (Lǜ） | lime, willow |
| Blue | 紺・浅葱 (Kon/Asagi) | 蓝 (Lan) | Indigo, sky blue |
| Purple | 紫 (Murasaki) | 紫 (Zi) | royal purple, lavender |
| Brown | 茶 (Cha) | 棕 (Zong) | tea, tan |
| Black | 黒 (Kuro) | 黑 (Hei) | ink |
| Gray | 鼠 (Nezumi) | 灰 (Hui) | mouse, ash |
| White/ivory | 白・牙色 (Shiro/Ge iro) | 白/象牙色 (Bai/Xiang ya se) | shell |
| Gold | 金 (Kin) | 金 (Jin) | metallic yellow |
| Silver | 銀 (Gin) | 银 (Yin) | metallic gray |
| Other | その他 (Sonota) | 其他 (Qi ta) |
Structural weave/Pattern weave
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain/Tabby | 平織り(Hira ori) | 平织 (Ping zhi) | Muslin |
| Twill(S) | 綾織り(S) (Aya ori (S)) | 斜织 (S) (Xie zhi (S)) | Brocade |
| Twill(Z) | 綾織り(Z) (Aya ori (Z)) | 斜织 (Z) (Xie zhi (Z)) | Denim |
| Satin | 繻子織り (Shusu ori) | 缎纹组织 (Duan wen zu zhi) | Charmeuse, Baronet |
| Crossed | 羅織り (Ra ori) | 绞梭，交叉 (Jiao suo, Jiao cha) | Gauze |
| Compound | 複様組織 (Fukuyō soshiki) | 混纺 (Hun fang) | Double weave fabrics |
Supplementary Pattern
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brocade | |||
| Embroidery | 刺繍 (Shishū) | 刺绣 (Ci xiu) | Crewel work, Cross stitch, Bargello |
| Printing | 印刷・プリント (Insatsu/print) | 印刷 (Yin shua) | Chintz |
| Stenciling-Metal leaf | 印金・印銀・摺箔（Inkin/Ingin/Surihaku) | 金属模板印花 (Jin shu mu ban yin hua) | |
| Stenciling-Lacquer | Example | Example | |
| Stenciling-Shell | Example | Example | |
| Hand-Painting | 手描き(Tegaki) | 手绘 (Shou hui) | |
| Bind resist | 絞り染・纐纈 (Shibori/Kōkechi) | 绞缬 (Jiao xie) | Tie dye |
| Wax resist | ろうけつ染（﨟纈）(Rōketsusome) | 臈/蜡缬 (Ge/La xie) | Batik |
| Paste resist | 糊防染 (Noribōsen) | 防染浆/剂 (Fang ran jiang/ji) | |
| Clamp resist | 板締め染 (Itajimezome) | 夹缬 (Jia xie) | |
| Other | その他 (Sonota) | 其他 (Qi ta) |
Material
| English term | Japanese (romaji) | Chinese (pinyin) | examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silk | 絹 (Kinu) | 绢 (Juan) | Wild, Bombyx mori |
| Cotton | 綿 (Men) | 棉 (Mian) | Pima, Egyptian, Asiatic |
| Wool | 毛・ウール (ke/Ūru) | 毛 (Mao) | Merino, Alpaca |
| Synthetic | 合成 (Gōsei) | 人造纤维 (Ren zao xian wei) | Polyester, Nylon |
| Hemp | 麻 (Asa) | 麻 (Ma) | Hemp cloth |
| Metallic | 金属 (Kinzoku) | 金属 (Jin shu) | gold lame, Gold-threaded brocade |