IMA 2012.85, Man's Ceremonial Coat, Uzbekistan (early 20th century)

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Artifact Information

IMA 2012.85, Indianapolis 35.1967. L: 54 in. W: 78 in. (including sleeves) (Gift of David and Elizabeth Reisbord, Santa Monica, California).

A man's ceremonial coat from Uzbekistan, silk cross-stitched on cotton backing [1].

IMA 2012.85 A man's ceremonial coat from Uzbekistan © Indianapolis Museum of Art
IMA 2012.85 detail © Indianapolis Museum of Art
IMA 2012.85 detail, sampling location image adopted from reference [2] with author's permission

Summary of results

Two threads were collected for dye analysis, analyzed by prof. R. Laursen at Boston University

Two gold yellow silk samples were analyzed. Berberine and other alkanoids were identified. The dyeing source was a protoberberine type, probably amur cork tree.



[2] Victor J. Chen*, Gregory D. Smith, Amanda Holden, Niloo Paydar, Kathleen Kiefer "Chemical analysis of dyes on an Uzbek ceremonial coat: Objective evidence for artifact dating and the chemistry of early synthetic dyes" Dyes and Pigments 131 (2016) 320-332.