PEM E80968 Dragon robe, China (19th century)
Artifact Information
Pale yellow Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. Imported from Guangzhou, China. Chinese crepe shawls such as this, with a ground of "bird-of-Paradise yellow" or "stem yellow" on which cordons of flowers are embroidered are mentioned in 1828 in the Ladies' Monthly Museum of London as "elegant novelties in fashion"[1].
The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E80968.
Summary of results
Yellow thread from the collar seam was samples and analyzed. The major components of the plant are flavonoids: rutin, keampferol and quecetin glycosides. The dyeing source was probably pagoda tree buds.
HPLC profile
References
[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.