Difference between revisions of "PEM E80968 Dragon robe, China (19th century)"

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Pale yellow Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. Imported from Guangzhou, China. Chinese crepe shawls such as this, with a ground of "bird-of-Paradise yellow" or "stem yellow" on which cordons of flowers are embroidered are mentioned in 1828 in the ''Ladies' Monthly Museum of London'' as "elegant novelties in fashion"[1].
 
Pale yellow Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. Imported from Guangzhou, China. Chinese crepe shawls such as this, with a ground of "bird-of-Paradise yellow" or "stem yellow" on which cordons of flowers are embroidered are mentioned in 1828 in the ''Ladies' Monthly Museum of London'' as "elegant novelties in fashion"[1].
  
The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E49250.
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The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E80968.
  
[[File:80968.jpg|center|frame|Image of the embroidered Chinese silk shawl. ]]
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[[File:80968.PNG|center|frame|Image of Imperial dragon robe. ]]
  
 
== Summary of results ==
 
== Summary of results ==
  
The major components of the plant are protoberberine alkaloids: palmatine and jatrorrhzine. No berberine was detected. The dyeing source was probably [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Huangteng_LC huangteng].
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Yellow thread from the collar seam was samples and analyzed. The major components of the plant are flavonoids: rutin, keampferol and quecetin glycosides. The dyeing source was probably [http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Pagoda_tree_(Styphnolobium_japonicum)_LC pagoda tree buds].
  
 
== HPLC profile ==
 
== HPLC profile ==
  
[[File:Huangteng lc.PNG|center|frame|Absorbance at 350nm (mAU)]]
 
  
== Identified compounds ==
 
 
[[[SliderGallery rightalign|Pa2.PNG~palmatine UV-Vis|Ja2.PNG~jatrorrhizine UV-Vis|]]]
 
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
|-
 
! scope="col"| Compound
 
! scope="col"| RT (min.)
 
! scope="col"| MW
 
! scope="col"| UV/vis
 
! scope="col"| Other
 
|-
 
|-
 
| palmatine
 
| 37.1
 
| 351
 
| 348,428
 
| major component
 
|-
 
| jatrorrhizine
 
| 34.4
 
| 337
 
| 348,428
 
|
 
|}
 
  
 
== References ==
 
== References ==

Revision as of 13:04, 7 August 2017

Artifact Information

Pale yellow Chinese embroidered silk shawl. Early to mid-19th century. Imported from Guangzhou, China. Chinese crepe shawls such as this, with a ground of "bird-of-Paradise yellow" or "stem yellow" on which cordons of flowers are embroidered are mentioned in 1828 in the Ladies' Monthly Museum of London as "elegant novelties in fashion"[1].

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA USA. E80968.

Image of Imperial dragon robe.

Summary of results

Yellow thread from the collar seam was samples and analyzed. The major components of the plant are flavonoids: rutin, keampferol and quecetin glycosides. The dyeing source was probably pagoda tree buds.

HPLC profile

References

[1] Worth, S.(1986) "Embroidered China crepe shawls: 1816-1863; Dress 12:43-54.